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There’s a new Sushi place in town, Tori’s Sake & Grill, which doesn’t have a website of it’s own so the town’s guide will have to do. I have very mixed feelings about it, but I have no doubt I’m going to go back to it again.

It looks like the restaurateur took over an existing place that didn’t exactly have the atmosphere of a sushi joint. It’s sparse and a bit threadbare, the tables are second-hand and the utensils come in a plastic wineglass with “upscale” paper napkins and the cheap sort of disposable chopsticks. And for that experience, Omaha and I spent $78 (before tip) on two meals: An unagi don (grilled eel rice bowl) ($33) and the chef’s choice nigiri platter ($45).

But here’s the thing: I don’t know where the chef gets his fish, but he must have the most amazing contacts, because I have never had sushi that fresh. It was insane just how creamy and perfect the prepared fish was. I usually use very little soy sauce, and this time it felt like blasphemy to use any at all. Our usual haunt is Miyabi Sushi, and when we’re feeling indulgent we head out to Mashiko’s, which is amazing and has a reputation for using only highly sustainable fisheries, but it’s also adventurous and innovative in a way ordinary sushi diners might find disconcerting.

It has that neighborly, ordinary ambiance (the place is very well ventilated, a plus) and a disconcerting humming coming from the electrical box next to the men’s room, but the sushi was out of this world, and I can’t say I was disappointed by the layout, even at $45.
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Elf Sternberg

May 2025

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